Anse Bernard: the Plateau’s only beach, and the one Dakar nearly lost

Anse Bernard is not earned by a long journey but by its context: it is the only beach on the Plateau, squeezed between the ministries, the Hôpital Principal and the sea, and it very nearly stopped being public. Do not come looking for a postcard beach; come for what no other beach in Dakar can give you, a swim a few minutes’ walk from the offices and museums of the city centre, with Gorée sitting on the horizon. And as you spread out your towel, remember that this strip of sand had to be defended.

At a glance

Resident or visitor: two ways to use the same cove

You live in Dakar. Anse Bernard is the beach for a break: the one you head down to after a morning of paperwork on the Plateau, the one where you come for an early swim before work, the one that spares you an hour’s drive to Ngor or the Petite Côte when all you want is to get in the water. At weekends it becomes the beach of the neighbourhood’s young people and of families from the centre: if you are after peace and quiet, come on a weekday or very early. And for a proper sea outing from Dakar, booked with QFS, you get the resident rate: up to 30% off.

You are passing through. Do not make it your beach day: the cove is small and simple, with no guaranteed facilities. Make it the break in a day of sightseeing on the Plateau. Between the Théodore Monod Museum of African Art, the cathedral and the Gorée ferry, an hour with your feet in the water changes everything, especially in the heat of the day. It is also one of the few places where you will see Dakar as the people of Dakar live it, far from the hotel beaches.

A beach that had to be won back

The Plateau was built on a rocky promontory that ends to the south at Cap Manuel. Its coast is made up of cliffs and rocks, and beaches are rare: Anse Bernard, a small sandy cove facing the harbour and Gorée, is the only one in the city centre that has stayed open to the public.

That status as the last beach in the centre has made it something worth fighting over. Dakar’s coastline has been eaten away by construction for decades, and Anse Bernard has not been spared: private projects on the edge of the beach have been challenged by local residents, activists and young people from the neighbourhood, in the name of the public maritime domain, the coastal strip that belongs to everyone.

The affair became national news on Sunday 30 June 2024. That day, Prime Minister Ousmane Sonko went to the beach and revealed that it had been divided into building plots in November 2023: parcels of 2,500 to 5,000 square metres, taken from the public maritime domain and allocated to private individuals. He denounced practices contrary to the public interest, announced a halt to these allocations and asked the Minister of Town Planning for an emergency development plan to make the site more welcoming and guarantee access for all.

Since then, no major works have transformed the site: the beach remains a simple, busy, fragile place, and young people from the neighbourhood are still calling for it to be protected. Youth associations from the Plateau organise clean-ups there and call for its protection, because rubbish builds up and erosion is wearing away the coast. That is the real reason to bring a bag and take your rubbish home with you: here, how clean the beach stays depends largely on the people who use it.

Key facts & figures

Getting there & official fees

The beach lies on the Corniche Est, at the southern tip of the Plateau, just behind the Hôpital Principal. If you are already on the Plateau, walk: the Théodore Monod Museum and the cathedral are less than a kilometre away, Place de l’Indépendance a little further. From other parts of Dakar, taxis (agree the fare before you get in) and ride-hailing apps will drop you on the corniche; allow 10 to 30 minutes depending on traffic, longer at rush hour. You then go down to the sand by a short path: it is not suitable for pushchairs or for people with reduced mobility.

Access to the beach is free: no additional official fees. Just bring a little cash for water or a drink sold on the spot, and something to sit on: facilities are basic and nothing is guaranteed, no showers, no toilets, no shade.

What to see

The view of Gorée. This is Anse Bernard’s gift: the island sitting in the harbour, the boats coming in and out of the port, the ferry shuttling back and forth. In the evening, the low light turns the water and Gorée’s silhouette golden.

The Plateau’s cliff. From the sand, look up: the city-centre buildings tower over the cove. The contrast between the offices and the swimmers sums the place up.

Beach life. Morning swimmers, local youngsters, weekend families: watch how the people of central Dakar make their only beach their own. It is a neighbourhood scene, not an attraction.

The Corniche Est. Before or after your swim, walk along the corniche: it offers viewpoints over the harbour and Gorée, and leads south towards Cap Manuel.

Nearby

Anse Bernard is the sea gate of the Plateau: head back up to the Théodore Monod Museum of African Art, the cathedral and Place de l’Indépendance, then carry on to Dakar’s iconic markets, from Kermel to Sandaga. From the port’s ferry terminal, the ferry takes you to Gorée Island and its House of Slaves (Maison des Esclaves): seen from the beach in the morning, visited in the afternoon, that is the right order. A little further north, the Museum of Black Civilisations rounds off the day, and the Great Mosque of Dakar marks the entrance to the Médina. Offshore, Madeleine Islands National Park can be visited on a supervised outing. For a proper day of swimming, Ngor beach and Ngor Island are at the other end of the peninsula. For the bigger picture: our Dakar and Dakar Region pages, and our ideal three-day itinerary in Dakar.

The right time

At weekends and during the school holidays, the small cove fills up quickly: that is when the neighbourhood’s young people and families from the centre meet there. The dry season, from November to May, brings clearer skies and more bearable heat; the rainy season (hivernage), from July to October, brings warmer water and showers that can cut your outing short.

Practical tips

Swimming. Swim in the daytime only, where others are swimming, and do not count on lifeguards being on duty. When there is a swell warning, stay on dry land. The rocky edges of the cove call for water shoes.

Keeping it clean. Bring a bag and take your rubbish away with you: that is what makes the difference on a beach its users clean themselves.

Clothing. Swimwear is the norm on the sand; cover up when you head back up to the Plateau, its government offices and the cathedral.

Photos. The view and Gorée can be photographed freely; ask before photographing people. On the way, avoid photographing official buildings and the security forces.

Belongings. Keep an eye on your bag when it is busy and bring small notes.

Book an activity here with QFS

Anse Bernard has no activity of its own: it is a base for your days in central Dakar. To understand the neighbourhood you can see from the beach, book one of our guided cultural tours of the Plateau. To get to Gorée or the other islands, see island excursions and pirogue trips. For the sea, boat trips (sunset, islands & sport fishing), paddle, kayak & canoe or swimming & water activities take over. You pay 20% to secure your booking (the booking fee), and the balance is paid on site, on the day of the activity. Any official charges, such as the ferry and the Gorée tax, are payable on site and not included in the price. Live in Senegal? You get the resident rate: up to 30% off depending on the activity (the exact rate is shown on each listing).

Frequently asked questions