Senegal & live performance: where and why here
Let us be clear from the start: Senegal has no circus tradition in the European sense, with a big top, dynasties of acrobats and acts handed down from father to son. Contemporary circus arrived recently, and through an unusual door: social circus. In Dakar, a collective began teaching juggling, balance, acrobatics and aerial skills to children living in centres for young people in difficulty, before becoming a fully fledged circus school. There, circus is as much about rebuilding self-confidence as about putting on a show. That is the energy you will find on stage today: acts built on the body, lifts and juggling, with no animals and often no words, so anyone can follow them. The movement also reaches beyond the country: Abidjan and Bobo-Dioulasso host regular circus festivals, and performers travel all over West Africa.
Circus may be young, but the taste for street performance is not. The simb, or false lion, is its liveliest example: a man in make-up, with a mane and painted face, dances, roars and chases spectators around a circle, led by a master of ceremonies and the drummers. You will mostly see it in the neighbourhoods of Dakar and Saint-Louis during the long summer holidays. The practice is fading with urbanisation, which makes every simb you come across all the more precious. The other big street event, the Saint-Louis fanal, parades lanterns several metres high through the town in December, often shaped like its landmarks.
For indoor venues, Dakar has two state-run venues. The Daniel Sorano National Theatre, opened in 1965, is home to a ballet company, a drama troupe and a traditional lyric ensemble. The Grand National Theatre, opened in 2011, has since 2020 borne the name of Doudou Ndiaye Coumba Rose, the great master of the sabar drum, who died in 2015: the country’s great national stage is named after a drum major.
Formats: watch or have a go
- Acrobatics class in Dakar: an hour with a teacher to work on balance, juggling, lifts and body expression. Children, teenagers and adults are all welcome with no experience needed, solo, or as a pair to learn partner lifts.
- Drama class in Saly: two hours of warm-ups, exercises and stage work with a teacher of body expression and live performance, one-to-one to progress at your own pace or in a small group to act together.
Neither class requires any experience. Details of what is on offer, who it is for and what to bring are given on each of the two listings.
Where to see circus and shows in Senegal
- Dakar: the heart of the scene and home to the acrobatics class. This is where contemporary circus took root, where cultural centres programme shows and children’s workshops, and where both national theatres are found.
- Saint-Louis: the town of street performance, from the December fanal to the holiday simb, and of the Saint-Louis International Jazz Festival.
- Saly, on the Petite Côte: the drama class, to slip two hours on stage into a beach holiday.
When to go
Workshops and indoor shows run all year round; for children, aim for the afternoon or the weekend. Two moments show the street at its best: the long school holidays, at the height of the rainy season (hivernage), when the simb comes out in the neighbourhoods; and December, the month of the fanal in Saint-Louis. The dry season, from November to May, is still the most comfortable time for an open-air show.
Good to know & budget
For acrobatics, wear loose, comfortable clothing and bring water. At a show, arrive a little early. Ask before photographing a performer up close. When a simb is on, keep the little ones at a sensible distance: the false lion is there to frighten, and it succeeds.
On Que Faire Sénégal, the price shown on the activity is the price of the service. You pay 20% to secure your booking (the booking fee). The balance is paid on site, on the day. If you live in Senegal, you get the resident rate: up to 30% off (the exact rate is shown on each listing). For a class booked here, there are no additional official fees. Tickets for the national theatres and festivals are handled by their organisers and are not sold through the site.
Who is it for?
First and foremost children and teenagers: an acrobatics class builds balance, coordination and confidence, and a show without words captivates them whatever their language. Adults are not left out: the drama class in Saly is a good way to come out of your shell on holiday. Residents will find an activity to fit into the rhythm of the week or the school holidays, and a weekend outing that makes a change from the beach. Visitors will see it as a way to meet today’s Senegalese creative scene in an afternoon, to combine with a visit to Dakar. For dance, see the African dance classes; for more ideas for outings with children, see family days & children’s outings.
The Saint-Louis fanal was born of a midnight Mass. In the days of the signares, the women of the town’s high society made their way to the Christmas service escorted by lantern bearers who lit the procession through the night. The procession stayed, the lanterns grew: today they reproduce the town’s landmarks and still parade in December.
Frequently asked questions
Is there a traditional circus in Senegal?
No, not in the big-top sense. Contemporary circus is recent and developed in Dakar around a social project with children. The older tradition is street performance instead, such as the simb, the false lion.
Is the acrobatics class suitable for both children and adults?
Yes. It welcomes children, teenagers and adults, with no experience needed, solo or as a pair. Wear loose, comfortable clothing; the listing covers the rest.
Do I need to speak Wolof or French to follow a show?
Not for circus: acrobatics and juggling need no words. For theatre, the language of the play varies; check with the venue.
When can I see the Saint-Louis fanal?
The fanal parades in December, at night, through the streets of Saint-Louis. The programme for each edition is announced as the year-end holidays approach.
How do I book and how much should I budget?
The price is shown on the activity. You pay 20% to secure your booking (the booking fee), and the balance is paid on site, on the day. Residents get the resident rate: up to 30% off, and there are no additional official fees.
